Common retention issues and how extend the life of your lash extensions

Getting to the bottom of bad retention.

You may be asking yourself "why are my lash extensions falling off?" or "how can I keep my lash extensions on longer?" To answer these questions I've created a handy guide for those who are having issues with premature or excessive fall out or want to ensure the lashes that they have aren't going anywhere. 

On average, we naturally lose between 3-5 lashes a day. Anything beyond that could be a cause for concern. I'm going to cover the most common reasons for poor retention so you can easily troubleshoot and get the maximum wear time from your lash extensions. 

•Improperly washing your lashes•

Not washing your lashes every day, using the wrong cleanser, or washing too aggressively will lead to retention issues. The oils from our skin break down the adhesive and weaken the bond to the natural lash. It's absolutely necessary for good retention to keep your lashes clean. On the other hand, using a brush that's too stiff or using excessive force while cleansing will pull out or peel off the extensions. Remember to use a high quality cleanser formulated for lash extensions like this one from Alchemist, and a soft bristled eyeshadow brush (similar to a MAC 217 blender) and use small wiggling motions across the lash line. Here's my guide to aftercare including how to wash your lashes.

•Using makeup that isn't safe for lash extensions•

Makeup that contains ingredients that break down the adhesive impairs the bond of the lash extensions to the natural lashes. There are a few common ingredients in makeup that will destroy a full set of lashes in a matter of days. This is a guide to lash safe makeup with a current list of products that can be used safely around lash extensions.

•Using skincare that isn't safe for lash extensions•

Just as some makeup products break down the adhesive's bond, skincare can do the same. Here's a guide that covers everything you need to know about choosing skincare products that won't decrease retention.

•Your hair products are getting on your lashes•

This one is easy to solve and just takes a little revision of your current routine. I see retention issues traced back to hair fairly often. Our hair's natural oils will break down lash adhesive just like the oils from our skin. Most hair products contain ingredients that aren't safe to get on your lashes, and whether it's the application of the products or transfer from your hair itself, they can drastically reduce the amount of lash extensions that you have. Let's start with washing and conditioning your hair, it needs to be the first thing you do when bathing. Make sure you rinse shampoo and condioner down your back and not your face. After rinsing your conditioner, secure your hair off of your face, and then wash your face and lashes afterwards. Condioner is meant to moisturize and coat your hair and it also does this to your lashes because after all, they are hair. This coating of oils will stick to your lashes unless it's washed off immediately. It's a relatively easy fix to just wash your lashes after conditioning your hair. Next, your leave in products can also easily transfer to your lashes. Use care when using a shine spray or leave in condioner. Always spray away from your face. If you use a hair oil or serum be careful not to get it on your face. Remember that these products are now on your hair, and if your hair rests on your lashes there will be tranfser. When you're awake it's usually annoying to have hair in your eyes, so hair resting directly on your lashes isn't too much of an issue. The retention problems usually arise when your hair is resting on your lashes while you sleep. This is easily fixable by putting your hair up and/or wearing a wide headband while you sleep. Easy-peasy. 

•Inadequate bond or poor application•

Temperature and humidity fluctuations during application or a bottle of adhesive that wasn't shipped or stored properly can be the culprits in this case. This happens occasionally with even experienced lash artists. If the adhesive is drying too quickly it won't be able to create a permanent bond to the lash. These issues show up within 72 hours of application. Within two or three washes you'll see excessive fallout. The majority of lost lashes will not have a natural lash attached. In cases where the adhesive has bonded properly and there's a lot of lash extensions falling off, the base of the fans or individual lashes may not have attached securely and are lifting. This is an application issue that often happens with newer techs. When you brush or wash your lashes it peels them up. In this case, you'll see fall out without natural lashes attached and also ones with natural lashes attached that will look lifted at the base. Another application issue is fans or individual lashes that are too long and heavy to be supported by the natural lash. The weight will cause the lashes to shed prematurely.  

The picture below shows how a lash extension should be weighted and attached. It's grown out and needs to be removed, but it's completely flush with the natural lash and is not lifting. Lash extensions should be placed around 1mm from the lash line. This one has grown out this far because it's properly installed and is permanently attached. Application issues are apparent within the first few times you brush and wash your lashes. I personally offer a free fill or touch up if I'm contacted within 3 days of the initial appointment. 

Ideal lash attachment 

•Medical or health issues that effect retention•

Sometimes bad retention can be caused by an underlying heath issue or medical condition. The lashes that you shed will have a natural lash attached. Conditions that can effect lash retention include: hormone fluctuations, recent chemotherapy (within two years), thyroid disorders, and vitamin and mineral deficiency.

•Touching your lashes•

Picking, pulling, rubbing, and touching your lashes will cause retention issues for a number of reasons. Obviously, picking, pulling, and rubbing with pull out the extension with the natural lash attached. This is not advised as it will cause permanent damage to your natural lashes. Touching your lashes with your fingers transfers oils from your hands onto your lashes. If you use hand lotion it will get on your extensions. 

•Excessive heat and moisture•

Hot water and steam soften the cuticle of the natural lash and also cause it to swell. This impairs the bond of the adhesive and will cause premature shedding. Never use hot water to wash your lashes, and never let a faucet or shower run over them. Rinse lashes with water in a cupped hand. Avoid excessive steam, and always be as gentle as possible with your lashes until they are dry. 

Hopefully this guide has helped you identify some common retention issues. Please feel free to comment below with any questions! 

-Beauty Geek