Lash serums have become a staple beauty product over the last few years. Naturally long lashes in less than 30 seconds a day is appealing. The sad truth is, not all lash serums are safe and can cause permanent changes to skin and the eyes.
So, what exactly is prostaglandin? Prostaglandin was originally used as a prescription glaucoma medication called Lumigan. Doctors started noticing their patients using Lumigan eye drops were coming in for checkups with increasingly longer and thicker lashes. This was especially apparent in patients only using the drops in one eye. The pharmaceutical was then passed through the FDA for use as a prescription eyelash enhancer, and Latisse became big business for the doctors and dermatologists who were prescribing it. Other companies followed suit and created what is called an "analogue" of the active ingredient in the prescription drugs, thus making it legal to sell over the counter. An analogue is a chemically similar, but not exact copy of a regulated drug or medication. They work in the exact same way, but since they aren't technically the same thing it's legal to distribute and sell without a prescription. This is how it's legal to sell GrandeLash which is a prostaglandin lash serum. The prostaglandin and analogues work hormonally to increase the anagen or "active" growth phase of the lashes. By making this active growth phase longer, lashes do not naturally shed, they just continue to grow. There are drawbacks to this though, as the hormones disrupt the growth cycle they also disrupt the ocular fat around our eyes and the melanin that gives pigmentation to the iris and skin.
GrandeLash side effects
I professionally retailed a prostaglandin lash serum and began to see side effects with my clients. I work closely with the eyes and notice even subtle changes. Because of this, I was able to see the aftermath and unknowingly documented it by photographing my client's lash extensions. The loss of volume around the eyes became apparent on most clients at around the 9 month mark. My clients who used GrandeLash as directed had the most visible side effects. The ones who would forget to use it, or misplace the tube and only apply once a week were not effected. It should be noted, the ones who didn't use it regularly didn't have lash growth either. The changes to skin and eye color happen gradually, so most people don't notice it until it's too late. The client pictured below used it religiously, and her eyes began to look sunken in. She developed deeper wrinkles on both her upper and lower eyelid.
In this picture you can also see the eye color change. The prostaglandin expands the melanocytes in the iris, or colored portion of the eye. Expanding these melanocytes means any eye color will become darker. Green and hazel eyes will look more brown, and brown and gold eyes will become less vibrant.
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| Less than 1 year of using prostaglandin lash serum |
In this picture you can see the expanded melanocytes in her iris. Where her eye was blue-green before, the color is now darker and has a brown tint all the way through. Had we not immediately discontinued using the prostaglandin lash serum, this would have continued until her eyes were predominantly brown. The change happens on any iris that has melanin present. Green eyes will show the most drastic darkening. Even brown eyes will become darker, though it may not be as apparent. The only eye color that will not get darker is pure light blue without any gold or brown present. This is because there aren't melanocytes present in an iris of that color. The client in the picture above used the serum sparingly and did not ever apply the serum to her lower lashes, but it spreads enough that it has increased the length and volume of her lower lashes. This tells us that even applying as directed it will still migrate around, and ultimately, into the eye itself.
Another side effect, though not permanent and less disfiguring, is a darkening on the skin where the serum is applied. This subsides when you discontinue using the product, so it's mostly just annoying while you're using it.
As soon as I discovered these changes while going through my work photos I informed my clients that they needed to discontinue the serum immediately. The change happens so slowly, it really isn't noticeable to most until it's drastic and the damage has already been done. It was at this point I began searching for an alternative.
How to identify a prostaglandin lash serum
Hormonal/prostaglandin lash serums don't often say on the label that they contain them. A couple ways to know if a lash serum contains prostaglandin is to look at the instructions. If it says to use it until you achieve your desired results, or for so many weeks and then cut down your applications, it likely contains a prostaglandin analogue. They'll also say to wipe the excess from the applicator, apply sparingly, and allow to dry for a minute or two before continuing with your routine. This is because prostaglandin serums are watery, and applying sparingly and allowing it to dry is to try and reduce the amount of serum that gets in your eyes.
These are the most common prostaglandins found in lash serum:
- Isopropyl cloprostenate
- Bimatoprost
- Isopropanol Phenyl-hydroxyl-pentene Dihydroxy-cyclopentyl-heptenate
- Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide
- Trifluoromethyl Dechloro Ethylprostenolamide
Alternatives to prostaglandin lash serums
Luckily, science noticed when lash serums became serious business. There has been a good amount research devoted to finding safe alternatives. A few peptides have been proven to effectively grow lashes without unwanted side effects. These peptides make the lash and follicle healthier, and thus stronger and more efficient. They stimulate growth by keeping the lashes in an active growth cycle without using hormones to disrupt and alter it. These peptides are Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, and Biotinoyl Tripeptide-16. When all three are in a lash serum they work in sync with the different phases of the lash growth cycle to keep the follicle active, increase terminal length, and decrease shedding. An added bonus, they're also are fantastic for your skin and have anti-aging benefits. They don't work hormonally, and so they won't darken eye or skin color, and by being beneficial to skin they can help with the sagging or sunken eyelids that prostaglandin serums cause.
This serum from Alchemist is ophthalmologist recommended, prostaglandin free, and contains all three peptides along with conditioning and nourishing ingredients. It's fantastic for anyone who has lash extensions, gets lash lifts or brow laminations, or has previously used a prostaglandin lash serum.
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